Bright cherries, redcurrants, smoked tobacco, and spicy, earthy notes all emerge from the 2020 Chateau Picque Caillou, a pure, medium-bodied, elegant Pessac-Leognan that has plenty of class. The tannins are fine and polished, the balance is spot on, and this is all about finesse and elegance.

Aromas of blackberries, dark chocolate, spice box and toasted almond. Some graphite, too. Medium- to full-bodied. Tight and concentrated with firm, chewy tannins. Structured and lingering.

This vineyard, now surrounded by the Bordeaux suburbs, is producing some fine classic wines. This vintage in its youth is lightly stalky, with a smoky character that comes from wood aging. Its potential is fine, softening, highlighting the black-currant flavors and tannins.