Aromas of fresh herbs with some tobacco, lavender and black fruit. Earth, too. Medium to full body with tight, polished tannins. Long, firm and racy.

Tasted at Bordeaux Index's annual 10-Year On tasting in London. The 2006 Château Haut-Bailly has a refined and pure bouquet with hints of dark chocolate infusing the precise red berry fruit. I love the way this seductively unfurls in the glass, as if a finger is beckoning you. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a keen line of acidity, quite grippy and backward towards the finish, suggesting that this will benefit from another year or two in bottle. Elegance and power here, a Haut-Bailly cruising at a high level. Tasted January 2016.

You need to think ahead here, because this wine is currently totally dominated by wood. The richness and classic, balanced structure that is normal with Haut-Bailly seems to have been put aside in favor of a highly polished, toast-laden style. Search for the fruit and there is blackberry,spice and fruit tannin. But it's hard. Wait 10 years at least.

Berries, mineral and violet on the nose follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and a beautiful floral finish. Starts out earthy, but turns rich and beautiful. Evolves beautifully in the glass.