Incredible perfumes of flowers, berries and cherries. Ethereal. Medium to full body, ultra-fine tannins and super length. The evolution in this in barrel has been wonderful. Only the best plots with old vines were used here — so one-third of the production of the site. Drink in 2021, even if this is already gorgeous.

The 2014 Nenin was a bit of a whipcracker when I tasted it from barrel, so I was intrigued to find whether it would replicate that performance now in bottle. The bouquet is very well defined, perhaps more minerally and taut than previous vintages with truffle-tinged red berry fruit unfurling in the glass. There is also a potent tang of the sea (kelp or oyster shell perhaps). The palate is very well balanced, supple in the mouth, but it exerts a pleasant grip in the mouth and much more purity than vintages tasted over the 1990s and 2000s. This builds on that promise in barrel and is really quite a lovely Pomerol deserving of its newly designed label.

This has grip, with charcoal and dark earth notes running throughout. The ample flesh is balanced by bright acidity, allowing the core of plum, raspberry and cherry preserve flavors to hold the upper hand through the finish.