The 2009 Leoville Las Cases is aging very gracefully, exhibiting all the plenitude and generosity of the vintage without any of its potential excesses. Offering up aromas of sweet cassis, loamy soil, cigar wrapper, spices and a deft touch of classy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a layered core of fruit framed by fine, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, beautifully defined finish. It's at the beginning of what will be a long drinking window.

This is gorgeously layered with cassis bush, anise, roasted fig and plum reduction notes all framed by racy espresso and graphite. Very deep and very long, with terrific intensity on the finish thanks to razor cut from the seemingly endless iron spine. With its purity and precision, this mineral-driven Cabernet should cruise for two decades. Best from 2020 through 2035. 14,165 cases made. –JM