The 2007 Doisy-Vedrines has a well-defined, quite generous bouquet with dried honey, peach skin and overripe Clementines; there is ample botrytis here, though not quite as nuanced as Daene. The palate is well balanced with marmalade and quince, moderate depth, fine acidity, but maybe it has lost a little complexity on the finish in recent years. Still, this is a decent Barsac that ought to give another 15-30 years' drinking pleasure.

Tasted at the chateau, the 2007 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines does not achieve the same level of precision as the 2006 on the nose, although there is plenty of botrytis here with scents of melted candle wax and white peach. The palate is vibrant on the entry with impressive weight: hints of orange peel and apricot with a tender, almost understated finish. This improves in the glass, gaining more complexity and nuance and yet never quite demonstrating the sheer ambition as the 2009. Yet I notice even within the limited amount of time at my disposal some melioration in the glass, gaining harmony and tension and so I would not hesitate in decanting this very fine Barsac.

Editors' Choice <br> Intensely rich in character, touched lightly by new wood, the acidity crispening the ripe orange and sweet peach skin texture. This is a gorgeous, opulent wine.