Seven up for Charles Heidsieck; the seventh release of their magnificent Blanc des Millenaires Champagne, the 2007. Their charismatic chef de caves, Cyril Brun, describes the wine as 'dangerous', as in dangerously good, and it is hard not to concur. The legendary Daniel Thibault, who made the first Blanc des Millenaires in 1983, was aspiring to make a very specific style of Chardonnay, rich and indulgent at the same time as being classical and rigorous of construction, a deft paradox in other words. The 2007, child of a cooler, more linear vintage than the rather heady 2006, has achieved this ambition with great aplomb. Cyril is confident that stylistically the 2007 will be closest to the 2004 and the 1995, both greatly lauded and both of which have had an unfailing capacity to win virtually every competition into which they are entered. The pale gold shimmers invitingly, its mousse discreet yet persistent, its aromatics hitherto dominated by notes of grapefruit, yuzu, citrus and quince, behind that sourdough, flint-stone and intimations of toast and honey, both of which will become more pronounced over the splendours of a long life. 20% each of five great villages, all but Vertus ranked as Grand Cru, have provided the raw materials for this most magisterial of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. Dosed at 7.3g/L (the lowest ever at Charles) and disgorged in July 2021, with a smart new bottle design.

Intense oyster-shell and candied-lemon aromas pull you into this very elegant champagne, which is so precise on the sleek and focused palate with a finish of crystalline purity and brightness. Still really youthful, thanks to the uplifting freshness! A Blanc de Blancs from 5 top Crus in the Cote des Blancs.

The 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires is the seventh opus of this vintage after the 1983, 1985, 1990, 1995, 2004 and 2006 vintages. This 100% Chardonnay exhales aromas of candied lemon, lemon oil, spring flowers, ripe orchard fruits and hints of pastry. The palate is coated and fleshy, rich and dense, with racy acids and a chalky, penetrating finish. Hide bottles for seven to eight years.

One of the great Blanc de Blancs Champagnes, this wine only hints of its age and maturity. Up front, the wine has layers of white fruits and a steely texture. It is behind those features that the brioche and almond character begins to show. This is a wonderfully balanced wine, ready to drink now.