James Suckling 98
This is another fantastic white and continues to be one of the best from Tuscany. It's so perfumed with sliced apples, pears and kiwis, as well as cream, hot stone and sea. Granite. Full-bodied yet energetic and layered with red-wine sensibility. Extremely long finish. Great wine.
by JS, James Suckling , 2019
Wine Spectator 92
Intense, featuring a creamy texture, saturated with peach, apple, lemon and baking spice flavors. This is underscored by bracing acidity, and the finish fades gracefully, evoking a gentle seashore note. Shows terrific balance, texture and length. Decant.
by BS, Wine Spectator , 2019
Robert Parker 95+
This wine is really quite terrific, and with 6,500 bottles made, it is easier to find (and more affordable) than Bibi Graetz's new single-vineyard expression of Ansonica, Colore Bianco. The 2018 Testamatta Bianco Isola del Giglio sees fruit blended from three bigger vineyard sites on Giglio Island and some smaller ones as well (Vigneto del Corvo, Scopeto, Ulivello, Radice and Le Grotte). In contrast to the Colore Bianco that revealed more consistency, the two bottles I sampled of this wine (one opened in the morning and one in the afternoon) showed very different results between them. The morning bottle was more fleshy and ample, while the just-opened bottle offered very linear notes of citrus, apple and white peach. Some of the grapes are harvested early, in order to maintain that total acidity, and used as a blending agent with the rest of the wine. Green harvesting is not practiced here, as each vine is left on its own to ripen. Bibi Graetz tells me that the 2018 vintage was much easier and gave more satisfaction compared to the difficult 2017 growing season. Of course, like any white wine from the Tuscan Coast, you get a distinctive layer of sea salt on the closeâ€”in this case, mixed in with some freshly milled white pepper.
by ML, Robert Parker , 2019
From a medieval castle, Castello di Vincigliata, acquired by his parents over 60 years ago, winemaker Bibi Graetz crafts his wines on a hillside overlooking the great city of Florence. Beginning initially with only a small, 5-acre vineyard on this hillside in Fiesole, in little under two decades, Bibi has become one of Italy's most ingenious winemakers adding "cult winemaker" in addition to "talented abstract artist" to his dossier.
Since the release of his first wines in 2000 and without any formal training, Bibi Graetz has managed to stir-up the Tuscan wine scene, and with the creation of Testamatta and Colore, has made his name eponymous with great Tuscan wines. Regularly scoring in the high 90’s with wine publications like Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, and James Suckling, coupled with his unique and artisanal winemaking approach, Bibi Graetz’s wines have garnered a loyal following among wine collectors and wine trade.
The Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ Bianco is a stunning new white wine from this famed estate. This highly novel white wine is sourced from old vine (100%) Ansonica from Island of Giglio, 90 year-old vineyards which are set on granite and sand soil with a Goblet training system. The texture of the wine and bright salinity really shines here as ripe melon and pear flavors mingle with the wonderful sense of brightness and citrus blossom undertones. Fantastic right now, this will evolve well for at least a decade, picking up lovely tertiary notes as it ages.
After a childhood spent on the island of Giglio and having lived the unique experience of Gigliese wine, Testamatta Bianco was born, the result of the knowledge handed down by the old farmers who every morning prepared to reach the vineyards with their donkeys and told about their unique viticulture to a young Bibi.
Rock and granite sand
12 months of aging
The grapes for Testamatta are sourced from the best vineyard of the Island: Serrone. We can technically call Testamatta bianco a “single vineyard selection”. Serrone is in the south-east part of the island, facing the sea at an altitude that goes from 60 to 150 meters altitude, terrace after terrace. The vines, up to 100 years old, have the shape of a very small goblet and are grown in the middle of the rocky, poor and granitic soil of the island. Harvest started the 18th of August, every grape, handpicked, was carried in small baskets to the winery, located in the center of the island in Giglio Castello. After the destem and a very soft pressing with dry-ice, we left the skins with the juice decanted for less then 1 hour. After this shot period of maceration the must was for approximately 48 hours at low temperature in stainless steal tanks and then moved to new 225L barriques for the alcoholic fermentation at 20°C. After the fermentation the wine aged with the lees for 12 months, without any malolactic fermentation and then bottled.
This vintage on the Giglio Island was quite unusual, it was very rainy and humid both in winter and spring. The significant precipitations were needed to restore the water resources in the soil. The summer was ideal, hot and dry, with intermittent rain showers. All these features allowed the vineyards to dry out maintaining abundant water reserves. The harvest was awesome and later than usual. The grapes were characterized by great balance, healthiness and elegance.
“Testamatta Bianco condensate the aromas, the flavours and the character of the Island of Giglio in a bottle: you can fill the smell of the underwood, the mentholated of myrtle, the minerality of the soil and the elegance of the Ansonica grapes. All these notes are perfectly combined together by the fine tannins and the smoked bouquet of the oak” Bibi Graetz, winemaker & owner. 100% Ansonica (Inzolia)