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Sous Bois literally means under wood and that is what Billecart-Salmon have done with their latest release the Brut Sous Bois. The wines used to make the final blend have all been vinified entirely in oak in a return to the original way the Champenois used to make their champagne. Vinifying and ageing in oak gives the wines extra body and texture as well as toasty notes. The nose shows enticing aromas of ripe apples cinnamon and brioche. On the palate this shows as a rich and well-balanced wine with a wide range of flavors including apples, grapefruit, yeast, toast and a hint of toffee. The finish is long and persistent. It’s made of Premier and Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs; Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ; and Pinot Meunier from the right bank of the Vallée de la Marne. Vinification and ageing take place in oak casks at low temperature, there’s partial malolactic fermentation, around one-third reserve wines and 6 years ageing on lees.

One third of each of the main Champagne varieties is used and fermented in old barrels, then aged for six years on lees. 7 g/liter dosage. The using oak with an average age of 15 years old doesn’t add any flavor, but the barrel fermentation of the base wine gives a real supple, elegant texture to this wine. Beautiful and complex.