Lemons, dill, cucumber, green apples and sea shells here. Evolves to fresh nutmeg and stones. Lots of phenolic tension, texture and intensity with a medium body. Tight for now. From organically grown grapes. Unfiltered. Drink or hold.

A special cuvee launched in honor of this top biodynamic winery's 20-year anniversary, Clay is, as the name suggests, from vines with feet in the estate's Broadbridge clay soils. Native yeast, lees and old Austrian oak barrels all contribute to this pristine wine, which is round, elegant and poised. With aeration, it opens to a multifaceted nose of tangerine, white peach, orchard blossom and grass, shaded in salted cream. The palate is full-figured, with depth and weight but also freshness, length, a saline spine and a gorgeous chalky texture. There's a level of complexity here rarely seen in Marlborough that, frankly, raises the bar for the whole region.