Plums, currants, pine cones, mushrooms and bark on the nose. Some licorice, too. It's medium-bodied with tightly knit tannins. Tight and fresh with fantastic tension and drive. Refined and focused. Spicy and lightly salty at the end.

The 2019 Beau-Sejour Becot has turned out nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, wild berries, raw cocoa, spices and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's deep and layered, with a rich mid-palate that's underpinned by succulent acids and powdery tannins. Located opposite Château Canon on Saint-Emilion's limestone plateau, there's some significant restructuring going on in the vineyards here, and in the cellar, foudres, amphorae and once-used barrels complement new oak: the result is the best wines this estate has produced in the modern era.

This delivers a tumble of ripe raspberry, plum and boysenberry fruit flavors, lined with violet, red tea and sweet tobacco notes that add lift and range. The long, racy, chalk-lined finish leaves a pure feel that's not easy to achieve in this vintage. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.